Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and visitors equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive roster of world cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a global network of more than four hundred metropolises across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "is a testament to its profound food heritage and vibrant culinary scene," according to a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this time-honored city comes as hardly a shock to its residents or avid food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, bustling, and eclectic city – the capital of India's most populous state – is now in the global gaze for what has perennially characterized its heart: an immense love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a continued discussion from morning until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and raised to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases fresh harvests but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on many street corners, there are little shops and carts – little-known delights that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and demanding. The artisan beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however note that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will encourage more people around the world to learn these narratives and visit the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
